Развитието на свободното катерене

Швейцареца Claude Remy представя хронологичен анализ на еволюцията на свободното катерене в боулдъра и катеренето на маршрути. Това е една хронология, която явно не е и не може да бъде окончателна, но е само стимул за по-нататъшен анализ и дискусия за развитието на катеренето.

Claude Remy
 
Боулдър
Година Категория Катерач Боулдър маршрут

1914

4b Jacques de L?piney La Presta, Fontainebleau, France
1934 5C Pierre Allain L’Angle Allain, Fontainebleau, France
1946 6A Ren? Ferlet La Marie Rose, Fontainebleau, France
1950 6b Paul Jouy La Stalingrade, Fontainebleau, France
6C/6C+ Paul Jouy Le Carre d’As, Fontainebleau, France
1953 7A Robert Paragot La Joker, Fontainebleau, France
1958 7B John Gill Gill Right Problem, Tetons, Wyoming, USA
1959 7C John Gill Red Cross overhang, Tetons, Wyoming, USA
1960 7C+ Michel Libert L’Abattoir, Fontainebleau, France
1975 8A Jim Holloway Trice (AHR), Flagstaff Mountains, Colorado, USA
1977 8A+ Jim Holloway Slapshot, Dinosaur Mountain, Boulder, Colorado, USA
1978 7B+ John Bachar, Ron Kauk Midnight Lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA
7C+ John Gill The Groove, Colorado, USA
1979 7C John Long Speed of Light Dyno, Black Mountains, USA
1983  7C  Pierre Richard  L’Abb? Resina, Fontainebleau, France
1984  8A  Jacky Godoffe C’?tait Demain, Fontainebleau, France
1987 8A+ Ron Fawcett Careless Torque, Peak Districk, GB
8A+ Jacky Godoffe Partenaire particulier, Fontainebleau, France
1988 8A+ Alain Ghersen L’? plat du gain, Fontainebleau, France
 8A+  Jerry Moffat  Superman, Cressbrook, GB
1989  8B  Jacky Godoffe Le mouvement perpetuel, Fontainebleau, France
1992  8B  Fred Nicole  La danse des balrogs, Branson, Valais, Switzerland
 8B  Philippe le Denmatt  Enigma, Fontainebleau, France
1993 8B Jacky Godoffe  Fatman, Fontainebleau, France.
 8B Jerry Moffat  The Dominator, Yosemite, USA
1996 8B+ Fred Nicole Radja, Branson, Valais, Switzerland
1998 7B+, F Lynn Hill Midnight lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA
1999 8A, F Catherine Miquel Duel, Fontainebleau, France
2000 8C Fred Nicole Dreamtime, Cresciano, Switzerland (presa rotta: 8B+)
8B+ Fred Nicole Oliphant’s Dawn, Hueco Tanks, Texas, USA
2002 8C Fred Nicole Monkey wedding, Rockland, Sud Africa
8C Fred Nicole Black Eagle, Rockland, Sud Africa
 8B+, F  Josune Bereziartu  La traversia De Balzola, Baltoza, Spain
 8C  Bernd Zangerl  Viva l’evolution, Tyrol, Austria
2003 8C, F Josune Bereziartu E la nave va, Lindental, Switzerland
2004 8C+ Mauro Calibani Tonino 78, Meschia, Italy
8C Fred Nicole Le poin?onneur des lilas, Jura B?lois, Switzerland
2005 8C Fred Nicole Terremer, Hueco Tanks, USA
2008 8C+ Christian Core Gioia, Varazze, Italy
Mauro Calibani Photo by © Giulio Malfer

8C + е премината и от Fred Nicole, Dai Koyamada, Christian Core, Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham….

Маршрути
Година Категория Катерач Маршрут
1918 6a expo Emanuel Strubisch Wilder Kopf- Westkante / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1930 6a+ expo Frank Elliot, Harry Dovere Gilbert Ellis Wall End Slab Direct at Stanage, Peak District, GB
1936 6b/6b+ expo Willi H?nztschel Schrammtorw?chter nord, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1949 6c expo Peter Harding Demon Rib, Black Rocks, Peak District, GB
1952 6c expo Wulf Scheffler Schwager-Talseite / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1958 7a solo OS Don Whillans Goliath, Burbage, Peak District, GB
1960 6c solo John Gill Final Exam, Castle Rock, Colorado, USA
1961 7b+ solo John Gill Thimble, Needle, Dakota, USA (12m high)
1970 7a John Stannard Foops, Gunks, USA
1972 7b John Bragg Kansas City, Gunks, USA
Alan Manson Invents the Figure of 4 (Yaniro)on the University of Leeds climbing wall
1973 6c solo OS Jim Erickson Cassandre, USA (new route integral solo)
1974 7c Steve Wunsch Supercrack, Gunks, USA
1977 8a Peter Cleveland Phlogiston, Devil’s Lake, USA
7b, F Lynn Hill Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks, USA
1979 7c, F Lynn Hill Ophir Broke, Telluride, Colorado, USA
8a Tony Yaniro Grand Illusion, Sugar Loaf, California, USA
7b+ expo Bernd Arnold Direkte Superlative, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1980 7b+ OS Patrick Edlinger La polka des ringards, Buoux, France
7b+ OS Patrick Edlinger Parties carr?es, Buoux, France
1981 7c+ expo Maurizio Zanolla (Manolo) Il mattino dei maghi, Totoga, Dolomiti, Italy
1983 8a+ Jerry Moffat The Face, Altm?hltal, Germany
1984 8b Wolfgang G?llich Kanal im R?cken, Altm?hltal, Germany
8b Martin Scheel Vuelo a ciegas direct, Montserrat, Spain
7c+ OS  Jerry Moffat in USA e in Europa, citiamo Pol Pot, Verdon, France
 7c+, F  Lynn Hill  Vandals, Gunks, USA
 1985  8b+  Wolfgang G?llich  Punks in the gym, Mount Arapiles, Australia
 8a solo  Antoine Le Menestrel  Revelations, Raven Tor, GB
 1986  8b+/c  Antoine Le Menestrel  Ravage, Chuenisberg, Jura, Switzerland
 8b+  Antoine Le Menestrel  La rage de vivre, Buoux, France
 8b+  Antoine Le Menestrel  La minimum, Buoux, France
 7c solo  Wolfgang G?llich  Weed Killer, Raven Tor, GB
 8a, F  Luisa Iovane  Come back, Valle San Nicol?, Italy
 1987  8c  Wolfgang G?llich  Wallstreet, Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura, Germany
 8a+ solo  Jean-Christophe Lafaille  R?ve de gosse, Les Arnauds, France
 8a, F  Christine Gambert + Lynn Hill  R?ve de papillon, Buoux, France
 8a OS  Antoine Le Menestrel  Samizdat, Cima?, France
7b, F OS Lynn Hill plusieurs aux USA
1988 8a+, F Catherine Destivelle Choucas, Buoux, France
8b, F Isabelle Patissier Sortil?ges, Cima?, France
 8c  Fred Nicole  Ana?s et le canabis, St-Loup, Switzerland
 1990  8c+  Ben Moon  Hubble, Raven Tor, GB
8c/+ Jerry Moffat Liquid Ambar, Lower Pen Trwyn, Galles, GB
8b+, F Lynn Hill Masse critique, Cima?, France
1991 9a Wolfgang G?llich Action Directe, Frankenjura, Germany
8b solo Alain Robert Compilation, Ombl?ze, France
1992 8a, F OS Lynn Hill Simon, Frankenjura, Germany
9a Alex Huber Om, Triangel, Endstal, Germany (9a+)
1993 9a Fred Nicole Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
9a Fred Rouhling Hugh, Les Eaux Claires, France
8b OS Elie Chevieux Les liaisons dangereuses, Calanques, France
1994 9a Alex Huber Weisse Rose, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
8a/+, F OS Lynn Hill Overdose, Lourmarin, France
1995 9b Fred Rouhling Akira, Grotte de Vilhonneur, Les Eaux Claires, France (NC)
8b+ OS Elie Chevieux Massey Fergusson, Calanques, France
1996  9a+  Alex Huber Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
 9a+  Neil Carson  The big bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales, GB
 8b+ OS  Elie Chevieux Maldita Maria, Cuenca, Spain
 1997  9a/+  Fred Nicole  Elfe, Grimsel, Switzerland.
 1998  8c, F  Josune Bereziartu  Honky Tonky, Onate, Spain.
 9a+  Bernab? Fernandez Orujo, Malaga, Spain (une prise vis?e, NC)
 1999 8b, F OS  Katie Brown Omaha Beach, Red River Gorge, USA
 2000  8c+, F  Josune Bereziartu  Honky Mix, Onate, Spain
 8a+, F OS  Josune Bereziartu  Bon viatge, Terradets, Spain
 9a+  Eric Talmadge  Im Reich des Shogun, T?fleten, Switzerland
 2001  9a+  Chris Sharma  Realization, C??se, France
 2002  9a, F  Josune Bereziartu  Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
 9a/+  Fred Nicole  La chim?re L2, St-Loup, Switzerland
 2003  8b solo  Alex Huber  Opportunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
8b+ solo Alex Huber Kommunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
9b Bernab? Fernandez Chilam Balam, Archidona (80m)
9a+ Ramon Puigblanque La Rambla Ext, Siurana, Spain
2004 8b, F OS Josune Bereziartu Steroid performance, Hourai, Giappone
8c OS Yuji Hirayama White Zombie, Baltzola Spain
9a/+ Fran?ois Nicole Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
2005 9a/+, F Josune Bereziartu Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
9a+ Dave Graham Coup de gr?ce, Sonlerto, Switzerland
2006 8b+, F OS Josune Bereziartu Hydrofobia, Montsant, Spain
2007 8c+ OS Patxi Usobiaga Bizi Euskaraz, Etxauri, Spain
2008 9b Chris Sharma Jumbo love, Clark Mountain, USA (75m)
9b Chris Sharma Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain
9b Dani Andrada Delincuente natural, Rodellar, Spain
2009  9b Chris Sharma Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain
2010  8c, F OS  Charlotte Durif Les rois du p?trole, Pic St-Loup, France
2011 9b Adam Ondra La Capella, Siurana, Spain
 9b Adam Ondra Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain
 9b Adam Ondra La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
 9b Chris Sharma First round First minute, Margalef, Spain
2012 9b+ Adam Ondra The Change, Flatanger, Norway

Claude Remy, CH-1864 Vers-l’Eglise, Switzerland, 024 492 26 73.

Adam Ondra Photo by © Vojtech Vrzba

Източник: Maurizio Oviglia – www.planetmountain.com- пълната версия на статията прочети тук.

 

 

1 мнение за “Развитието на свободното катерене”

  1. Според мен още няма преминаване на 9б+ от Ондра. Само най-висока точка от маршрута. Дано шерминатора го мине първи през 2013. Весели празници, Стамба

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